Sunday, April 30, 2017

I'm sorry. Vicksburg is closed today.

Evenin' soggy campers! What a day it's been. Tonight we are settled in Poverty Point State Park near Delhi, Louisiana. It's been a day of surprises.

We survived last night on "breezy point" without the need for any locals to attempt to explain how we were the only ones caught in the open next to the lake. it was actually close. The wind blew hard all night long with sustained wind reported as up to 25 mph and gusts to 33. Not quite a threat to blow us away, but enough to keep us rockin'.

All that wind and the rain that sometimes accompanied it was caused by a system of warm, moist air from the south (in Florida we call that "normal") colliding with cold, dry air coming from the northwest. Remember, it had been 99 degrees on Thursday as we passed through Ocala. Even in Hattiesburg last night the overnight low was 73. And I'll report it was a wet 73. On the other side of the point of collision of these air masses it was probably 20 degrees colder. Well, the point of collision moved today. First through Texas, Louisiana, Arkansas and Missouri then directly over us as we pressed northwest from Hattiesburg toward Vicksburg. For us it was rainy with some strong winds. For other folks it produced tornadoes and flash floods with property damage and loss of life.

I was hoping to get some good sunrise pics including the lake. There was a touch of color in the sky at 6:15 AM so I suited up and headed out. By the time I was set up at about 6:18 it was over. Solid overcast. Not enough sun poking through to even tell where east was. Gray. So, the crummy overcast shots from last night are all I got of Geiger Lake. Except for this. At about 7:00 two proud families of geese with goslings came out. One pair let their young 'uns graze in the area between our trailer door and the lake. I took advantage of the sliding panel in the door to take a few pics. Here's a look at a sign of spring in Mississippi:


So we used a spot where the rain had slowed to stow the outside gear and hit the road. Next stop the National Military Park at Vicksburg, Mississippi. When we arrived I went to the information desk to ask for a map. A lady still wearing the Smokey the Bear hat from her Halloween costume smiled, handed me a map and said "I'm sorry, sir. The battlefield road is currently closed since the storms this morning knocked trees onto the road and they are not yet cleared". Hmmmm. maybe the one day in my life I'm in Vicksburg... scene one of the most famous and decisive battles of the Civil War... and it's closed. It was lunchtime, so we made a plate in the trailer in the visitor's center parking lot. Miraculously, the road was open when we finished eating, so off we went!

Vicksburg was destined by geography to be a battleground of the Civil War. Both sides depended on the Mississippi to move goods including natural resources (like food and timber) down river and supplies up river. Even then, the Mississippi and its tributaries allowed navigation into the south (Louisiana, Mississippi, Arkansas, Tennessee, Kentucky, West Virginia) and the north (Illinois, Minnesota, Wisconsin Indiana, Ohio, Pennsylvania). Geographically, Vicksburg sits on the east bank of the river overlooking a full 180 degree turn in the river with steep slopes rising from the river for several hundred vertical feet. The town had about 6,000 population at the time and, being in Mississippi it was Confederate. Both sides knew that control of the Mississippi had military consequences. It also had political, since farmers and manufacturers on both sides would grow impatient if the use of the river was denied to them. The Confederates installed large artillery to allow them to stop ships with precisely targeted, practiced shots as they made the turn in the river below the town. Southern ships had full use of the river. Northern ships had none. Lincoln ordered General Ulysses S Grant to devise a plan and implement it to restore use of the river to the Union. Doing that involved disabling or capturing the artillery.

The Confederates, naturally knew this was coming. By the time the battle was ready to commence in 1863 the Confederates had 30,000 soldiers in Vicksburg and had created rows of protection including field artillery (smaller cannon) and trenches to engage an approaching enemy army and repel them. Those defenses were put to the test in April, 1863 as Grant's men approached the town after trying and failing for 6 months. The result was a standoff along rows of trenches approximately 5 miles in length and forming the shape of the number "7" with the town bordered by the trenches to the north and east and the river to the west. Rather than engaging in endless assaults until the defenses broke, Grant managed to gain control of the river to the north and south of Vicksburg and the Louisiana shore across the river. He surrounded the entrenched defenders and waited them out as food, water and supplies were consumed in the isolated town by the townspeople and their protectors. It took about 6 weeks and included daily cannon bombardment to demoralize the entrapped southerners and speed their surrender. Losses were significant as the placement of over 1,400 monuments on the battlefield can attest. However, the losses were not as significant as they would have been in an all out assault.

So, Grant won the day. Having control of the entire Mississippi was a huge boost for the Union. Grant became the General in command of the entire Union Army and rode final victory to the White House. It couldn't have happened without the opportunity and victory handed to him in Vicksburg, Mississippi.

The battlefield itself is difficult to comprehend in individual photographs. It is criss-crossed by ridges and ravines which were ideal for trenches, tunnels and snipers. It is densely forested and the remains of the battlements are still visible in places. However, I did get one shot that shows were the large guns could see the bend in the river (which has meandered and moved quite a bit since 1863 as the river continuously carves new paths through the silts and sands of the Mississippi valley flood plain. Here's a view that some gunner or lookout may have had before the Union Army deprived him of it:


 Note that the cloth roof in the foreground is a canopy roof for the exhibit of the ironclad USS Cairo (pronounced like the city in Illinois or the syrup, not the city in Egypt). It was used to by the Union in the efforts to reach Vicksburg in the months before the battle and was lost to a Confederate mine. It was located and recovered in the 1950s. Here's what Cairo looked like in her day and what's under that tent today.


Image result for uss cairoImage result for uss cairo

So, that's it for tonight. Long and interesting day with another discovery here in Delhi that I'm too tired to recount tonight. I'll save it for tomorrow. We'll press west again tomorrow to Tyler, Texas, east of the Dallas metroplex. Tuesday is our first day off the road since the trip started. We'll have tome to relax, resupply a bit and explore Tyler.

Until tomorrow!

SC'

Friday, April 28, 2017

Romeo, I don't think we're in Florida anymore!

Evening, Campers! It's Silver Cliche' here with you again. Tonight we're  settled comfortably at Topsail Hill Preserve State Park near Santa Rosa Beach, FL.

Settling back into the nomadic life usually followed several steps and took a few days. For Mrs. C' and me on this trip it was more like flipping a switch. After the usual days of prep, packing, cleaning, double checking, questioning and planning we were off yesterday. By 9:30 last night we were both out like lights and didn't move until the sun woke us this morning. We dropped straight into our morning routine on the road. Coffee, reading, relaxing. The prior days' morning discussion included "what do we have to get done today to get ready?" or "well, if we are not ready on Thursday we could leave Friday and drive a double day.". Today our discussion included "look at this interesting article" and "we don't have to hurry... shall I make more coffee?". We quickly remembered that all of the hubbub of the past few days was about this.

Today's route took us from familiar east Florida into a totally different environment... the Florida Panhandle. Here's our route across I-10:

 

We are now deep in the "Redneck Riviera" in Walton County. Unlike the large population centers along the coast of the Florida peninsula and in a few inland cities such as Orlando and (hold your nose) Ocala, this place is sparsely populated with fewer than 60,000 year round residents in the county. The reason for that is, in my opinion, largely attributable to history and geography. The panhandle was the first part of Florida to be settled by Europeans. Our state capital is still there (much to the chagrin of state legislators from populous South Florida whose commute is a killer). When Florida became a state in 1845 the total population of the state was about 67,000. Half of those people lived in the space we traveled today. Few lived in the peninsula which was mosquito, malaria and yellow fever ridden. This is truly the historic heart of Florida. The Civil War, slow penetration of this part of the state by the railroads (compared to the east and west coasts of the peninsula which were exploited by Henry Plant and Henry Flagler) and a lack of natural resources created challenges.

However, most importantly its terrain was forbidding then and still can be today. I took a walk from our campsite to the beach on the Gulf of Mexico this evening after dinner. This area is sandy, scrubby, dotted with small lakes and swamps. Even within 200' of the surf line I encountered a sizable lake while taking a "short cut" from the pavement down a walking trail. I turned back rather than facing the scrub which was dense with sea oaks, southern pine and saw palmetto.  In effect, the natural barriers of vegetation, water hazards, sand and predators are arrayed in rows designed to slow anyone from reaching the goal. In other words, it's like a tough golf hole except here the goal is the beach, not the cup.

Let me show you a few pics to illustrate what i encountered:

The scrub including a trail. Try to envision this land as the first settlers encountered it.. with no trails. The thick, low, sharp vegetation grows everywhere here. It's a nightmare to travel through.
The pond I encountered that eventually caused me to backtrack. The beach dunes are less than 100' from the far end of this pond and the surf no more than 100' beyond that.
A modern warning about the challenges of being near that pond:

However, at the end of all that was a beautiful beach with soft, white sand and pale blue water. There were two people visible for as far as I could see in either direction. The evening was coming on and the sky overcast. I'm sure you can find better 180 degree panoramas on the Walton County Convention and Visitor's Bureau web site, but we are only here for one night so this is the best you'll get from me:


Note the red and purple flags warning beach goers that there is both hazardous surf and potentially dangerous marine life... be warned!

And just to remind me that this is in fact the "old south" and not the modern, coastal Florida of the peninsula where we come from I found this magnolia blossom just days from opening:

So even though we are still in "Florida", we are not in the Florida where we come from any more. This is the roots of Florida... the Florida that was part of the Confederacy... the place where Florida began as a state in the United States. To an extent it's progressed more slowly than the peninsula has. It dabbled with a couple of industry booms including logging and (of all things) turpentine production. It now hosts seasonal visitors... more skewed to summer than winter since this area is far enough north to have a bit of winter that doesn't reach South Florida... as its main economic driver. Discovering it is the reason we travel. Having seen it (again) its time to move on and see what else is out there for us to discover.

Tomorrow we head into the even deeper and older southland. We'll hop back on I-10 West for a while into Alabama then head northwest and spend tomorrow night in Hattiesburg, Mississippi. On Sunday we'll cross the Mississippi River at Vicksburg (I'm hoping that will be easier on us and on the natives than when General U. S. Grant and his buddies visited the area in 1863).

Stay tuned!

SC'