Friday, July 3, 2015

(Note: The following was written Wednesday night from Custer State Park, SD. Zero internet. We changed plans for Thursday and drove twice our normal day to reach Clarkson, NE and set down for the day Friday. This is being uploaded Friday morning. More news and pics from SD will appear later today.)


Hey, Campers!

A new day and a new state... South Dakota. The first time I've been in any Dakota.

The day started cool at 8,800 feet in the Bighorn National Forest in Wyoming. Bighorn is over 1.1 million acres... half the size of Yellowstone. That means still huge. We hadn't planned to stay there last night but did because of the altitude and our quest for cooler weather. We found it. Both Mrs. C' and I (whose home is 6 feet above sea level. If I float in the pool then stand up on the pool deck I literally doubled my altitude there.) noticed the thin air at Bighorn.

The campsite was simple and crawling with Amish or Mennonites or Shakers or something from Iowa. Folks of all ages in bonnets, suspenders long grey dresses, beards (on the men only). I guess they couldn't have been Shakers because they are both extinct and celebate. Nor Amish because these folks drove pickup trucks and 4-bys and used chain saws which they decided needed testing at 7:30 AM in the campground. By process of elimination I think these were Mennonites. 

There was no reason for us to stay so we pulled up the tent stakes and headed east! The trip across US 16 was quite something. We climbed up to 9,667 feet according to my altimeter before starting a descent that exceeded any we have faced. We lost 5,000 feet over the next hour or so and faced grades as steep as 8%. At one point there was a mandatory stop and brake check for all trucks and vehicles with trailers (that's us!). The sign in the pull off described the runaway vehicle precautions on the road below and showed a pic on an unfortunate truck that need but didn't use them. It should have been captioned "splat!". We were briefed and prepared but more importantly the Tundra and Airstream were up to it.

After a bit of a drive we arrived in Buffalo, WY. That's the second city named Buffalo I've been to on I-90. It's a small city that probably is described as the eastern gateway to the Bighorns (although we saw no evidence of that claim). Unlike Jackson, WY, the titles bestowed upon Buffalo, Way have not gone to its head. Mrs. C' found some worthwhile shopping, we had a good lunch at the Occidental Saloon (established in 1870-something) and for the first time in days we had reliable internet at least for a few hours. 

We pressed on... ever farther eastward... . Eastern Wyoming was boooorrrriiiinnnnggg! I dozed off for a few miles on I-90 and it didn't even matter... Same straight road, same scenery, for about two hours. We hit the South Dakota line at about 4:00 and the terrain changed almost immediately. Hillier, exposed rock, greener. After 20 or 30 minutes we reached Custer, SD. This town is probably billed as a "the gateway to Mt. Rushmore" and that would be apt. We didn't stop but the drive through impressed me that the town took a few arrows with the general for which it is probably named and never bounced back. It had more "rock shops" per mile than any town in the US. It had that same charming western realism we saw in Jackson but with 30 years of wear and tear. We headed on to Custer State Park, our campsite (which is butt up against other campers) and dinner at the Sylvan Lake Resort. The resort hotel is old in the most positive and charming way. Perhaps "venerable" or "storied" is more fitting than "old". The meal was very good. We decided to take an after dinner drive (having left the trailer and the two smelly dogs at the campsite). 

All I can say about the drive is WOW! The lighting was horrible for landscape photography but that didn't stop us from taking a hundred shots or more in 45 minutes. Most scenic was the 8'4" wide tunnel carved in living rock that we passed through just a mile or two from our campsite and 1,000 feet or more above it. Take a look....

Tomorrow we may do some sunrise shots at Sylvan Lake just 1/4 mile or so from here. We push farther east tomorrow to Pierre, SD.

Good night!

SC

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