Evenin' campers!
SilverCliche' here checking in tonight from Sopchoppy, Florida (with
apologies for calling it “Slopchoppy” last night… oh well!)
We're rapidly
settling back into life on the road. We woke up to a Florida April
morning with thin fog, temps in the low 60s and the sound of a crow
in a tree above the Airstream. Given that we had windows and both
roof hatches open for ventilation, it sounded more like the crow was
in the trailer. And April in Florida at 60 degrees means wet and
humid. Every soft surface including linens and clothing feels like it
spent 5 minutes too few in the clothes dryer. We ran the coffee pot
and settled into the recliners for the first good test since they
were installed. Ahhhhhh…. And we started the morning reading. The
combination of fresh coffee, reading and no particular plans for the
day drove the distraction of dampness right out of my head.
Eventually we got
tired of leisure and caffeine (after several hours!). I generally
plan the route during that time of day if we have travel ahead.
Tripadvisor is a great tool to scout out interesting things to see or
do en route and especially any places to eat. Today was not typical.
Scouring the route from Dunnellon to Sopchoppy was easy enough.
Finding a place to eat was easy enough (Deals Famous Oyster House in
Perry, FL won our business) but finding interesting things to do was
not so easy.
As we began the
drive it hit me. We've been here before. We've seen this place. We've
passed through the interstellar wasteland that is the space between
our country's bright and shining spots. At one point I asked Mrs. C' “If you
just woke up from a coma and looked outside could you tell me what
state we are in?” (Take it easy out there… that coma thing is
just a thought experiment… no actual comas are involved in this
travelogue… plus, if Mrs. C' was in a coma the last place
I'd have her is in the front seat of the truck driving between
Dunnellon and Sopchoppy… I'd have her at the Mayo Clinic and I
wouldn't be asking if she knew where we were driving… I'd be asking
“Doctor… when will she emerge from this frickin' coma?”… and
when she did emerge I'd ask “Honey… it's me… are you ok?”…
but for today the imaginary coma created the necessary mind clearing
scenario for my question… I'll be more thoughtful next time.) Back
to our story… she responded “I don't know… Maryland?…
Arkansas?… Nebraska?… Kentucky?” My suspicions were confirmed.
There is a certain sameness to portions of rural America that appears
in every state we've visited. There are long stretches of flat ground
crisscrossed by two lane State highways (with three foot paved
shoulders!) bordered by fields in which no marketable crop is growing
and backed by stands of trees that looks the same everywhere. These
stretches are interrupted occasionally by a crossroads or even a
small settlement. Those locations inevitably included a traffic light
that is flashing yellow in our direction, a permanently closed gas
station (if the last price per gallon sign is still visible I try to
guess in what year the last gallon was pumped) and generally ¼ mile
past the intersection a “courtell” (roadside motel) of about 10
rooms each of which has its own parking spot and a door facing the
main road and which is either abandoned or one room appears to be
occupied by (presumably) the owner of the establishment. There are
occasionally other forms to be seen. A shuttered storefront (farm
implements? auto parts?) a working US Post Office the size of a one car garage and the magnet of
any place two paved roads with double yellow lines intersect in
middle America a very busy Dollar General store! I realized we've
seen this over and over and over. Perhaps some of you know this
already. Maybe that's why you wave and say “have a good trip!”
when we leave. I'm thinking some of you prefer to read this rather
than taking the trip because you realize what I'm about to say. These
stretches of American pavement are endlessly boring. That's where we
spent the day and those bastards at Tripadvisor saw it coming and all
they had to offer us was an Oyster House!
I've decided these
segments of America need a name. Everything that is common and
annoying has a name. Think about it: mosquito, Federal Income Tax,
television commercial, teenage years. Doesn't the repeating
pattern of boring, rural American sameness deserve the same honor? If
we name it then we can use that name in conversation and nod
knowingly as our friends and acquaintances tell us what happened to
them. So, I propose “americountry”. Let me use it in dialogue:
My friend said “Silver Cliche' you look horrible. What happened to
you?”. “Mrs. C' and I spent nearly three hours today trying to get through a wicked stretch of americountry” I replied. “That accounts
for it.” he answered “At first I thought you had pneumonia, but I
realized you look way too bad for that. Hours stuck in americountry
makes way more sense."
So that's how we
spent the day. Stuck in amercountry (Note that the “a” is not
capitalized. It doesn't deserve to be.)
There were a couple
of interesting things to see today. I told you I'd look to get a
panorama of the Rainbow River in Dunnellon if the sun allowed this
morning. It did (after it dispatched the fog) and here's what that
looks like:
I wish you could see
how clear that water is and how quickly it was moving from right to
left in the frame. A very peaceful spot.
Tonight we are
camped in Ochlockonee River State Park on the banks of the
Ochlockonee River (duh!). The Ochlockonee (It's most accurately
pronounced with a distinct clearing of the throat. Try it. Just don't
make the mistake I did. Turn away from your loved ones for the first
three attempts.) While the Rainbow River was a short sprint of clear
water rising from the Floridan aquifer through a natural spring, the
Ochlo… oh to hell with it… “the 'O'”… seems to be comprised
of water that didn't make it into the aquifer. The river is a
distinct red color where it is shallow enough to see through at all.
It's quite wide, meandering, eroding the land and dropping the
trees that stood on its banks. Here, look at this:
Those roots were
once in soil and that tree will soon be in the river. For you, my
reader (or, hopefully, 'readers') I climbed out onto that tree to
take the panorama below. Don't tell Mrs. C' (she generally doesn't
read the blog. I give her a summary as we drive through americountry
the next day) that I risked a drop into the blood red waters of the
“O” to bring you this pic. She might drop into a coma if she knew. Here it
is:
So, that's our trip
for today. Tomorrow we head to Destin, FL. We've both wanted to see a
community in that area called Seaside. We owned and for 10 years
lived in the first house built in its sister development “the
Kentlands” in Gaithersburg, MD. You may have seen Seaside. It was
the location chosen for the filming of the Jim Carey movie “The
Truman Show” about 15 years ago or so. On the way to Destin we will
follow the coast, see the Gulf and escape americountry with a stop in
Panama City (Florida that is).
Until then…
SC'
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