Sunday, April 24, 2016

Into the Redneck Riviera

Howdy, Campers! It's Silver Cliche' again. Writing tonight from beautiful Santa Rosa Beach, Florida.

Reflecting on the day, I realized that I often share a perspective on where we are, the history of the area, geography, community, appearance, and even geology. I don't believe I've ever shared how we find these places or how we live on the road. Since today would be known in journalism circles as “a slow news day” this seems the perfect time to share thoughts about that.

The years leading up to Mrs. C' and I becoming the cliche's we are today were hectic. For four years we were planning our retirement and relocation to Florida from Maryland. In those years we moved (slowly at first, then with a flurry) ourselves and family 8 times. Three of those moves were within Maryland, three to Florida and two within Vero Beach. Even after we retired we threw in one more for good luck. For me, traveling was utilitarian. It was something to be achieved quickly, safely and with a distinct purpose. I believe I made 30 round trips between the DC area and Vero Beach, FL in those four years. All of the 60 one-way passages of I-95 during those years were done in a single shot. Twenty or more of those one-way trips were done with a trailer behind my truck. I believe I stopped for gas at every exit on I-95 between Woodbridge, VA and Cocoa, FL. I have been driving on I-95 somewhere between Washington and Vero Beach at literally every hour of the day and night at some point or another. So, travel for me was something one approached with a purpose and a vengeance.

Along comes the Airstream. This seemed like the perfect excuse to slow down and smell the roses. Instead of driving 900+ miles in a single stretch we could slow waaaaayyyyyy down and drive maybe 300 or 400 miles. That's only 5 or 6 or 7 hours. Except 6 driving hours translates to about 9 clock hours by the time you factor in gas stops, traffic slow downs, potty breaks, dog walks and lunch. That means leave the campground at 9 and get to the next one to set up camp at 6. That means start prepping at 8 AM and don't eat until 8 PM then go to bed and start all over again the next day. That sounds a lot like work and work is what we had retired to get away from! That's roughly how we brought the trailer home from New Jersey in October, 2014. Given Mrs. C's professional training and experience, I received a good amount of feedback and counseling about the effect my particular style of trip planning effected those around me. For that, I am of course thankful. Evidently not everyone believes 9 hours on the road is a break from the rigors of travel. I came to understand that after the first trip.

Along comes the second major trip in the Airstream. Yellowstone, 2015. A chance for redemption for this planner-of-trips. This time we would drive no more than 4 hours a day (making six clock hours from camp-to-camp). Better yet, we would spend at least one day per week while transiting to our destination in place… anyplace… no travel whatsoever… a chance to rub elbows with the locals wherever we happened to be. That worked out better, but still required an iron butt and a love of learning about America through a pattern of bug splotches on the Trunda's windshield.

Trip three, fall 2015 to Buffalo, Maryland and down the Atlantic coast. Now its 3-4 hours with 1 or two stops per week. Getting better… not quite there yet.

So, on the planning for this trip we targeted 3 driving hours on days we move and two days per week off the road. So far, so good. It gives us more time to meander or explore on travel days and more time to sightsee and decompress. Today and tomorrow fit that pattern. We hung around reading and drinking coffee at Ochlockonee River until well after 10:00. When we hit the road we took the slightly longer route along the Gulf shore versus the faster route on the Interstate. It was well worth the extra time. We also have our first day off tomorrow (day 4 of the trip) then will travel one day and have another day off in New Orleans.

Today's trip as I said above followed the shore route. It was interesting to see how the communities along the beach here in the Florida Panhandle differ from our beachside community on the Atlantic coast. The type, density and even construction of houses here differs considerably from the Atlantic. Among other things, they build on stilts here like they do in the Outer Banks and the Florida Keys. We don't see that in Vero Beach. In many areas we were on a main road and there were single building lots (maybe 150 to 200' deep) between the road and the shore each with a single house on it. I could see a TV show set in those areas. It could be called “Little cottage on the beach and the highway”. An actor like Michael Landon could be raising a flock of kids while alternately praising God's bounty from the sea and cursing the traffic noise. Naw… I think Gilbert Godfrey might be a better choice.

So as we roamed along on a beautiful Florida Panhandle April day (high of 82 degrees, sunny and breezy) practicing comparative Florida architectural criticism we suddenly found a gem. Apalachicola, Florida was near the mid point of our day. What a pretty little seaside (ok… Gulfside) town. It's town center was small, older, lovingly cared for and (unfortunately) mostly closed on a Sunday after the seasonal people have moved back home. In Florida, any place that actually has an identifiable town center is rare. Urban planning here generally follows the Johnny Appleseed method… let a random passerby scatter seeds everywhere and lets see which ones grow. Apalachicola was not cast in that mold. Also, the best of Florida is generally quite new. The sub-average parts of Florida date from the 1960's and 70's. Apalachicola looks like its from the 1920s or even earlier. This is the sort of charm one might associate with Cape May, NJ or some coastal town in New England where people still carve scrimshaw… not Florida. But there it was.

From there things got worse (that was predictable… they couldn't have gotten much better as far as a delightful Sunday drive goes). We passed through Port St. Joe, Tyndall Air Force Base and the gleaming rhinestone in the buckle of the redneck beach belt… Panama City! The good news about Panama City is you can get a tattoo while waiting for your transmission repair then eat sushi without leaving the strip mall where you stopped for a bottle of Southern Comfort and a new handgun. What a town!

Thanks to the time change (we are in CDT now!) we got to the campsite at Grayton Beach State Park by mid afternoon. We thought about running right over to Seaside but decided to lay low for the evening and do that tomorrow (you see… the shorter driving days are having their effect!). So, I tried something new. This trip I brought a baking stone for the grill. I made up a batch of scratch bread dough, left it outside (but covered) to rise and beat it senseless into pancakes to toss on the wicked hot baking stone. 10 minutes later… voila!… campground pita! I think it went quite well with some avocado/tomato/mozzarella salad. Here, take a look at the bread:


Ok, Campers. That's the story of how 1,000 mile driving days became 130 mile driving days and how that allowed us to find Apalachicola and fresh pita from a camp grill.

Tomorrow we explore Seaside and (I hope) wash the dogs… its getting a bit ripe in the truck with them all day.

Later,

SC

No comments:

Post a Comment