Sunday, September 20, 2015

At sea, but not lost

Evenin' Campers!

Greetings from the Outer Banks... the waaaayyyyy outer banks... specifically, Ocracoke Island, NC.

I think today's dispatch is mostly about the day's trip which began at First Landing State Park in Norfolk, Virginia. Im not feeling much like ranting, raving, complaining or criticizing tonight... although something snarky may flow to the blog without me seeing it approach until it hits the Internet.

I think I have to declare Norfolk the most humid place I've ever been, or at least noticed. That means it ranks above Singapore (Which I believe translates from the original Malay as "sauna at dawn". It's the only place I did business where your suit can become drenched in sweat during the short walk from the hotel lobby to the taxi that pulls up under the hotel's awning). It also ranks above Charlotte Amalie in the Virgin Islands where you don't need to tell a new business associate that you have flown in to meet with them... they can see it on your brow and feel it in your handshake. Norfolk was so humid that when I went out at dawn to take pics my camera lenses fogged up to the point I couldn't use them without wiping the fog off between each shot. That would be unremarkable if we had the trailer closed up last night and the air conditioning on. We had the trailer windows open and my camera was out on the table. Everything was the same temperature +/- a fraction of a degree and that was just enough to force the moisture in the beach air to condense on any surface including the lens of the camera. It was humid.

I did get some pics, though as the sun rose. Here's a shot of sea oats with the pink glow of dawn in the background:

So we packed, made the mandatory stop at "ye olde dump station" (even with the colonial touch of First Landing State Park you can't take the stink off that duty) and we were off, heading south! Sunday morning traffic was light and the trip was smooth as we set the GPS to the gateway to the Outer Banks... Kitty Hawk. Here's a line no one has ever uttered "Half the fun of the Outer Banks is getting there!". The trip was boooorrrrriiiinnnggg. Not much to see on that route however the draw of the day's activities kept us moving. We stopped for supplies and dropped $113 at Harris Teeter on "essentials" which included goat cheese, chocolate bars, six kinds of Indian food, dental floss and a bag of ice.... oh, and Diet Coke which keeps the trip from overheating on warm days or cold days or just about any days. On we went to our first stop where we also prepared lunch... the Wright Brothers Memorial at... class?.... did anyone say "Kitty Hawk"?.... well, that's incorrect. The Wright brother's first flight was at Kill Devil Hills near Kitty Hawk. It's lucky their first flights were short because apparently their sense of navigation was so bad that even they didn't know where they were at takeoff. In modern navigation terms that's called "a sure fire screwup" and guarantees that landing will not be where you intend it to be. Their mistake is actually understandable, since: Kill Devil Hills didn't become its own incorporated city until the 1950s; it is the next town south of Kitty Hawk; and the Wrights probably couldn't bring themselves to send a telegram that read "JUST MADE FIRST POWERED FLIGHT AT SOME PLACE THAT HAS NO NAME YET stop TELL PRESS stop BE HOME FOR CHRISTMAS stop O&W ". But if you want to see the most hallowed ground in aviation, don't stop in Kitty Hawk to look for it.

So, what did we see at first flight central? It is amazing how the magnitude of the accomplishment they achieved there is dwarfed by the area in which it took place. The Wrights made three flights on December 17, 1903. Each was longer than the prior one. The National Park Service has thoughtfully reconstructed the Wright's hanger ("shed" says it better) and workshop/quarters (I think the Unibomber patterned his living quarters after the Wright's... And certainly, Orville and Wilbur are in no way related to Frank Lloyd). Here is a pic of that:

They have a replica of the 1903 "Flyer" and an earlier glider in the visitors center. It looks like this:

They have also erected a huge monument at the top of Kill Devil Hill and three stones to show where each of the three flights on that first day landed. Here are the stones followed a pic looking the other direction of the first stone with the monument way up there on the hill:



Now, it would be easy to believe that the three flights ending at these numbered stones began up on that yonder hill... right? Wrong! All three began at the rock just beyond the first stone. That's right. The first flight was 120 feet long. 40 yards. A distance college quarterbacks can easily throw a football with accuracy. 120 feet that changed the world.

After lunch we continued south... into the Hatteras National Seashore. Most of the drive is unimpressive. The moving map on the GPS told us we were on a very narrow spit of land, sometimes only 1/2 mile. Most of the time the road is sunken between dunes that block the view of either the Atlantic Ocean to the east or Pamlico Sound to the west. Occasionally those views are available and are spectacular... Especially on the Pea Island Bridge which came up suddenly and was gone before a pic could be snapped. The towns which started as modern beach kitsch (mini golf, DQ, cheap national hotel chain, etc) to the north became more funky and beachy to the south. Only when we reached Cape Hatteras was their a clear modern town with full services. We saw Hatteras Light from a distance. This is the iconic lighthouse of the Outer Banks. Tall, tapered and painted in a helix of two navy blue and two white stripes, it helped sailors to avoid becoming permanent residents of "the graveyard of the Atlantic". We agreed we'd stop to take a real pic to share with you, our blog friends, when we got closer. We never saw it again even though we drove through Hatteras and later took the ferry from Hatteras to Ocrakoke. What the hell? We thought lighthouses were tall and painted in high contrast so they could be seen from far and wide! Not this one! I'm not sure why North Carolina needs an invisible lighthouse but as far as we could tell they have one.

At 3:40 we pulled into line for the ferry from Hatteras to Ocracoke. I asked a few questions of the attendant who reacted as if he had heard those questions so many times before that his ears were connected directly to his mouth - bypassing the brain - and the answers simply flowed from a reflex action. Here's what we looked like waiting in line with the other Ocracoke-bound vehicles:



While the cars were placed on two rows on the port side and two rows on the starboard, we were loaded on the inside with no vehicle beside the truck or the trailer. Here we are in place for the trip:

The trip was about an hour dock-to-dock. Not rough, but the experience showed that neither Puggles nor Soft Coated Wheaten Terriers were seafaring breeds of dogs. No accidents, but both dogs were clearly annoyed by the experience.

My initial impression of Ocracoke is that it isn't so much in North Carolina as it is near North Carolina. Take a look at this map link which shows our precise camping spot. Zoom out until you can see the North Carolina mainland. We are on land, but essentially still at sea. The trip from the ferry dock on the east end of the island to here was about 10 minutes. Along the way we saw where sand dunes blow onto the road so often that they keep a road grader parked ready to clear the road for travel. It was easy to see that it gets a lot of use. I walked over the dunes from our campground to see the surf. As residents of a barrier island in Florida which is not dissimilar to this one, I can confirm that the Atlantic Ocean here looks the same as the Atlantic Ocean in Florida. The sand here is a finer grind, though. The difference between the two places is that anywhere you go in Florida on the Atlantic shore there is obvious sign of development. I stood on the beach here and saw.... nothing. There were people visible at a distance and far down the beach I saw headlights (beach driving is permitted in the National Seashore by permit). Other than that... nothing. If you have a longing to stand on a deserted beach come here to Ocracoke. If you come at the very beginning or very end of the season (April to October) I'm thinking your odds of being alone are even greater.
Here's today's panorama of a view from surf to dunes on Ocracoke at sunset:

So, boys and girls, that's it for today. Tomorrow we will explore Ocracoke Island and sample it's cuisine and shopping.

Until then....

SC'

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