Saturday, May 21, 2016

Zion to Bryce with six switchbacks, a tunnel and 5,000 feet

Evenin', Campers! It's Silver Cliche' back with you tonight after taking the night off yesterday. We didn't have many tales of the road to share since we were laying low yesterday, so I think of it as sparing you the challenge of rummaging through a few pages asking “Ok… but what did they actually see and do today?”.

So with 24 hours and 100-and-something more miles behind us maybe I have enough to share tonight. And tonight we've moved on to Bryce Canyon National Park where we are safely and snugly tucked into North Campground. We have not yet toured this park (we have tomorrow set aside for that) so I'll catch you up on the end of Zion and the trip here.

First a recap of the trip to Springdale, Utah yesterday. Springdale is a picture-postcard little town that sits just outside the south entrance to Zion National Park. It includes restaurants, outfitter/guide services (remember, Zion has 4,000 foot tall sandstone cliffs and it is a magnet for rock climbers), shops of all descriptions catering to the gift buying public and hotels… lots and lots of hotels… most of which are built on a pattern that looks like the set for "Bonanza". If you're under the age of 50 you probably don't know that before Michael Landon raised all those cute kids on the prairie he was the little brother hanging out with a group of manly men on a place called the Ponderosa Ranch. Kind of like Monty Python's “I'm a Lumberjack” sketch but it went on once a week for an hour on TV for 20 years or something. Anyhow, Springdale was our destination yesterday which was easy since it was a 10 minute walk from our camping spot to the shuttle bus that drives back and forth 3 miles along the main street (check that… the only street) in Springdale. So we turned to TripAdvisor once again who suggested that our specific dining interests would be met at a place called Oscar's Cafe. We went. It was perfect weather to sit outdoors and we ordered chips, salsa and guacamole. While we perused the menu (mostly Mexican), the lunch arrived at the table next to us. The people laughed at the size of their meals. “You don't expect us to eat all that, do you?” they said. Mrs. C' looked, listened and said “I'm just going to have the chips, salsa and guac and a bite of whatever you order”. I wasn't scared... or wise. I ordered the steak chimichanga. Here's what that looked like:

(Note: Mrs. C's chips, salsa and guac with empty plate in the top of the pic)

After that we had a slice of Oscar's Famous Carrot Cake. Although they called it a “slice” it looks like what our local grocery store sells in their bakery as “dessert for four”. Here, let me show you:


Setting aside the quips about the huge portions, Mrs. C' and I both agreed that the guacamole was probably… no… absolutely the best we have ever had. The carrot cake was still warm and extremely moist. The cream cheese icing was softened by the warm cake. If it wasn't the best carrot cake I've ever had it was in the top three. I better stop writing about Oscar's. At present we are sealed in the trailer to protect against the impending cold. I'm feeling like a Klondike miner with a bin full of spuds in the corner reminiscing about lunch in the Palm Court of the Plaza Hotel in New York before heading to the frozen north to seek his fortune. If you're in Springdale go to Oscar's. Skip the entree and just have the guac and carrot cake. I think that covers most of the essential food groups anyway.

So, Zion… Zion. After lunch, Mrs. C' got a chance to focus on her specialty (Oscar's having been in my court) and we went shop-hopping. I had the chance to use one of the "man chairs" outside a ladies apparel shop. I had the Canon on me and the 250mm lens in the right cargo pocket of my khakis. Right in front of me was a 2,000 foot tall sandstone cliff about a mile away (remember, this is outside the park, the cliff walls are short here… ha… 2,000 vertical feet and it doesn't make the cut to be in the park). I took a few pics to show the kinds of features that this terrain offers when you look at it closely. Most of the cliff gazing at Zion is the big picture. It is even more amazing when you consider that the cliffs are alternating layers of harder and softer stone, some red, some sandy color. Some of it crumbles and forms streams of sand that look like the tailings of ant hills anywhere in the world… shaped into smooth, even pyramids by gravity but tracing back in a graceful cone to show you precisely where they came from. Let me show you a few shots:

This alcove was 1,500' up and probably big enough to accommodate the Statue of Liberty (not the base, too, just the statue. Note the tiny looking trees at the bottom. They are not tiny.)


And this layer of rock was about 500' below that alcove and was itself over 100' thick. It was bracketed above and below by layers of pulverized sandstone "dirt" in which trees grow:


If any of you feel you have a child or grandchild who may have the curiosity to develop a scientific mind, bring them to Zion. Point up at the cliffs and say “Wow… look at that… how do you think that all formed and became what we see today?”. If they are susceptible to scientific achievement they will ask you to take them to one of the rock shops or the library on the main street of Springdale and they will be off and running. If they respond “I don't know… can we go back to Oscar's now for another slice of carrot cake” then you probably have a future Political Science or Business major on your hands and should plan accordingly.

We hit a few more shops in Springdale before hopping the shuttle bus back to the park. At one point I said to Mrs. C', “I want to go in here” (that is supposed to be the dramatic and shocking line in tonight's blog. I never say “I want to go in here” on a shopping street in a tourist town). It was a half flight down to a place that billed itself as an artistic photography studio. This wasn't a gallery that sells the work of many artists. It was the gallery of a single photographer named David J. West (a few of you might find that ironic and amusing… especially since “West” is the surname I always use when making, and spelling, a name for restaurant reservations… perhaps some of you do, too). Anyway, on a couple of occasions in the blog I've admitted that I harbor a desire to be a landscape photographer, but then I link you to the work that professionals actually produce. This is one of those times. David concentrates on Zion and had hundreds of distinct images in sizes from 8x10 to 4x6… feet… for sale. Prices ranged up to $3,500. We walked out with memories and I wanted to link you to his web site so you can see Zion as a specialist sees it. Look through his work and especially for the pics where he climbs to the higher points in the park which provide the vantage point to see the work that the Virgin River has done to scour out the canyon over millions of years. http://www.davidjwest.com/index.php#mi=2&pt=1&pi=10000&s=0&at=0&a=0&p=4
and

So, we packed up this morning to head to Bryce Canyon National Park. The trip out of Zion heading east is amazing in itself. First off, when entering the park through the south entrance they ask you which way you plan to exit – at least they ask the driver of obviously oversize vehicles like the Cliche'. “We are heading east to Bryce” I told the Ranger. “OK”, he said “you'll need a tunnel escort pass. That'll be $15”. I paid. Today we used the pass. The route out of Zion heading east is on the Zion - Mt. Carmel Highway. Here's what Google Maps told us we were in for before we left on the Highway:
 

It includes 6 switchbacks and climbs the side of one of the cliffs in Zion Canyon then plunges through the mountain in a tunnel that was opened in 1930 and -- at over a mile – was at the time it opened the longest tunnel of its type in the world. Precisely what type it is, I can't say… but that's how the Park Service describes it. The reason for the $15 “escort fee” is because the size of vehicles has increased since 1930, as has the quantity using the tunnel. Two cars that passed comfortably during the depression came perilously close in the 1960s and became tunnel wedges by the 1990s. The Park Service in their wisdom said “I know, let's stop the tall/wide/long ones, charge them extra, then hold up traffic so oversized vehicles only move through the tunnel one way at a time in a line of single file traffic and use the full width of the tunnel”. Genius! So, after the six switchbacks and amazing views up the side of the mountain (I took no pictures as there were no pulloffs big enough for the Cliche'… you'll have to use your imagination or Google “Zion Mt. Carmel Highway”. I proposed a “Silver Cliche' Driving Experience” but given the narrow winding road with a multi-thousand foot drop on the passenger side, Mrs. C' slapped me and I put the Canon down in favor of eyes on the road and two hands on the wheel) we were stopped by the Ranger at the tunnel entrance, surrendered the pass we bought upon entrance to the park and were motioned on with the words “the tunnel is one way now… drive down the center of the road”. In two minutes we were through and suffered the glares of about 100 drivers whose cars were backed up trying to get into the park this Saturday morning but who were stopped because the Park Service didn't want Silver Cliche' to wedge itself into their vintage tunnel. Oh well.

On we went for another hour and a quarter of uneventful travel to Bryce.

The campground here is at best unimpressive. We have a parking lot view, albeit a distant one obscured by a pine grove. We were planning to drive the road through the park tomorrow and see the various overlooks. I took time as the sun was setting to go to the nearest lookout, about a mile away on a “scouting trip”. Mrs. C' and the dogs stayed in the Airstream. WOW! I was amazed! This may be the most unique and impressive landscape of the trip thus far. I'll leave you with two panoramas and a promise of more to come tomorrow. Before I share the pics, I'll tell a story. When I got to the edge of the canyon there was another guy there by himself. When I said “Wow” out loud he said “I know, right. There was just a family from India here. When they stood here a teenaged girl in the group said 'If this doesn't make you believe in Buddha, nothing will.'”



More tomorrow,


SC'

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